| CLASSIC pasta | two in southern Tuscany | |||
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The author Kate Simon once described viewing the Tuscan landscape as the same as seeing a constantly changing perfect Renaissance painting. No where is that more true than in Southern Tuscany, south of and southeast of Siena. Osteria le Pottazzine in Montalcino The village of Montalcino is not yet a Yountville or even a Healdsburg, yet, but with the reputation of its outstanding Brunellos growing apace, it is certainly moving in that direction. Visiting this incredible hilltop village south of Siena, in the heart of the Brunello region, for the first time in three years, the change, reflecting the greater prosperity of the surrounding countryside and the growing number of visiting Brunello lovers, was certainly noticeable, if not yet dramatic.
There are more shops, beautifully displaying their treasures, and especially, a host of new wine shops and wine bars. Plus several new trattorias, in addition to old favorites. One of these, on the main square, Piazza Garibaldi, opposite, sort of, the town hall, is Osteria la Potazzine. Here, at tables both inside and most delightfully, outside, Gigliola and Guiseppe Gorelli are delightful hosts.
We had a perfect southern Tuscan dish, pinci, the hand-made rough spaghetti of the regions, with a lamb ragu, and also an artichoke stuffed with ricotta and a touch of pepper -- a perfect, outdoor "wine country" lunch. The wines were also theirs: Brunellos and Brunello Rossi's, under the labels Pottazzine and Gorelli. These excellent Brunellos were available in their Enoteca next door. La Porta in Monticchiello Further south, both south and east of the exquisite town of Pienza, is the tiny village of Monticchiello. At the entrance to this very small hill town, eponymously, is a lovely trattoria: La Porta. Sitting on their outdoor deck, one perfect spring Tuscan afternoon, we joined a few fellow tourists, a number of locals, several visiting Italians also delighting in this special place, and a team of cyclists.
Our hostess served us a classic pappardelle with hare. This dish had, in addition to the ragu, a mixture of very small dices of tomato, carrot and rosemary. in the sauce. Our second dish was a ravioli, stuffed with baccala and a touch of ricotta, served in just oil, plus pieces of tomato and parsley. The ravioli construction was interesting: rather than a perfectly folded square, the bottom was folded over only to partially cover the under piece. This created a sort of pocket with a flap. Probably a simpler method of making a ravioli, it worked fine. The meal, with vino della casa, a Rosso Montepulciano. was as pleasurable as the view, looking northwest over the Tuscan landscape to Pienza and San Quirico d'Orcia in the distance. On the east, the view from the other side of the village is to the grand hill town Montepulciano, and down the historic Val d'Orca.
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