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We had to include a tomato cream sauce, since they do deem to be ubiquitous on Italian restaurant menus. But we are very wary of cream sauces in general: most seem to add cream to fill out the sauce without it adding to the overall flavor. There is no question, however, that cream sauces work very well with pasta shapes, such as shells, or in some lasagnas. And the addition of vodka gives the sauce the necessary zing (or oomph! as the case may be).

Ingredients:

• two pounds plum tomatoes, roughly chopped (or one 28-ounce can imported Italian San Marzano plum tomatoes, whole, with juice)
• four tablespoons olive oil
• two cloves of garlic, peeled and minced
• one-quarter cup minced onions
• pinch of red pepper flakes
• one tablespoon tomato paste
• salt and freshly ground pepper
• one-quarter cup chopped parsley
• three tablespoons vodka
• one cup heavy cream

Roughly chop the fresh tomatoes. If using canned tomatoes, also roughly chop them.

In a heavy pot, over medium heat, add the olive oil and then the garlic. Cook the garlic for fifteen seconds. Add the onion and tomato paste and the red pepper flakes. Stir and cook until onion turns golden.

Add the tomatoes. Add some freshly ground pepper and one-half teaspoon salt. Cook over low heat for fifteen minutes. Cool and then put the sauce through a food mill.

Return the sauce to a pan, add the vodka, stir, and heat for at least eight minutes until the alcohol has been burned off.. Add the cream, stir and add the parsley. Stir again

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