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Al Palazzo at the Hotel Palazzo Murat, Positano
Just as Positano, in the heart of the Amalfi Coast, consists of visual and sensual delights one after another, so does the Hotel Palazzo Murat, in the walking-only center of Positano itself. A beautiful location, with views towards the enveloping hills on one side and the sea on the other; rooms and public spaces that are esthetic and artistic jewels; a warm and gracious staff; and, not least, a spectacular dining experience that is the Amalfi coast at its finest. The restaurant is Al Palazzo, situated in a lovely outdoor Mediterranean garden, palm-covered and bougainvillea-accented, that is a part of the hotel. The kitchen opens out to the garden from one corner, and where chef Mario Romano can be seen preparing the presentations.
The starter was octopus, sliced in quarter inch rings, then slightly sautéed in olive oil, placed on a potato puree, and with a few asparagus spears added. The pasta course was Mezze maniche con Geneovese di maialee rosemarifino. This was a lamb ragout but not really. Instead of the ground meat which is usually the essence of ragout, this pasta sauce had lamb cut into about one-quarter inch dices. The lamb squares were sauteed in butter, with a touch or garlic and a touch of finely diced tomato. When finished, this lamb and its juices were mixed with the pasta, and a sprig of rosemary placed on top. The juice provided a perfect coating to the pasta and the small squares of lamb integrated excellently. Mezze maniche (striped sleeves) is a tubular pasta, about three-quarters inch in diameter and three-quarters inch in length. (This tubular pasta, when made with durum flour as it most frequently is, is generally called "paccheri".) This pasta, however, is made from regular flour, and is usually found in the northern regions, Bologna, Genoa, etc. In keeping with the small squares theme, another secondo was a freshly caught turbo, simply sauteed, and served with seasonal vegetables. The vegetables were the squares, in a presentation that is easily duplicated and was very tasty. Simply dice (in quarter inch squares) red pepper, yellow pepper, carrot and tomato, with a touch of garlic. The result is a lovely slightly spicy flavor with the vegetable squares soft but still holding their integrity. >>>Chef Mario Romano shared with us one of his elegant and delightful pasta recipes. A superb presentation, you will find it at ravioli al Palazzo. two in southern Tuscany The author Kate Simon once described viewing the Tuscan landscape as the same as seeing a constantly changing perfect Renaissance painting. No where is that more true than in Southern Tuscany, south of and southeast of Siena. Osteria le Pottazzine in Montalcino The village of Montalcino is not yet a Yountville or even a Healdsburg, yet, but with the reputation of its outstanding Brunellos growing apace, it is certainly moving in that direction. Visiting this incredible hilltop village south of Siena, in the heart of the Brunello region, for the first time in three years, the change, reflecting the greater prosperity of the surrounding countryside and the growing number of visiting Brunello lovers, was certainly noticeable, if not yet dramatic.
There are more shops, beautifully displaying their treasures, and especially, a host of new wine shops and wine bars. Plus several new trattorias, in addition to old favorites. One of these, on the main square, Piazza Garibaldi, opposite, sort of, the town hall, is Osteria la Potazzine. Here, at tables both inside and most delightfully, outside, Gigliola and Guiseppe Gorelli are delightful hosts.
We had a perfect southern Tuscan dish, pinci, the hand-made rough spaghetti of the regions, with a lamb ragu, and also an artichoke stuffed with ricotta and a touch of pepper -- a perfect, outdoor "wine country" lunch. The wines were also theirs: Brunellos and Brunello Rossi's, under the labels Pottazzine and Gorelli. These excellent Brunellos were available in their Enoteca next door. La Porta in Monticchiello Further south, both south and east of the exquisite town of Pienza, is the tiny village of Monticchiello. At the entrance to this very small hill town, eponymously, is a lovely trattoria: La Porta. Sitting on their outdoor deck, one perfect spring Tuscan afternoon, we joined a few fellow tourists, a number of locals, several visiting Italians also delighting in this special place, and a team of cyclists.
Our hostess served us a classic pappardelle with hare. This dish had, in addition to the ragu, a mixture of very small dices of tomato, carrot and rosemary. in the sauce. Our second dish was a ravioli, stuffed with baccala and a touch of ricotta, served in just oil, plus pieces of tomato and parsley. The ravioli construction was interesting: rather than a perfectly folded square, the bottom was folded over only to partially cover the under piece. This created a sort of pocket with a flap. Probably a simpler method of making a ravioli, it worked fine. The meal, with vino della casa, a Rosso Montepulciano. was as pleasurable as the view, looking northwest over the Tuscan landscape to Pienza and San Quirico d'Orcia in the distance. On the east, the view from the other side of the village is to the grand hill town Montepulciano, and down the historic Val d'Orca.
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