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The beauty of form and the delight of taste make tortellini, and also cappelletti, a special joy and a culinary treasure.

To make the tortellini and/or the cappelletti, see the basic recipe: tortellini. The two are similar: the cappelletti, somewhat smaller, are made from square cuts of pasta, formed to look like a pointed hat. The tortellini, which is one of the native dishes of Bologna, is made from circular cuts of pasta, and then formed.

for the sauce:

• three tablespoons sweet butter
• two-thirds cups heavy, whipping cream
• one-half (or more) freshly grated Parmesan cheese (to one's taste)
• salt and freshly ground pepper.

for the pasta:

• 48 or so freshly made tortellini (or 60 cappelletti)

Put the butter and cream into a sauté pan; turn the heat to medium and boil. Stir constantly. Boil until the cream reduces somewhat, almost half. Add salt and pepper. Set aside.

Heat 4-5 quarts of cold water to a raging boil, add a tablespoon or so of salt, drop in the tortellini, and stir regularly until al dente. (test by taking out a tortellini, cut off an edge, and taste for al dente that way). Drain, shaking out the moisture.

Return the sauce in the sauté pan to medium heat. Add the pasta very gently. Toss, also gently. Then slowly add the cheese, tossing thoroughly as you are adding. As always, serve immediately on warmed plates or bowls (a sprig of parsley adds color).

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