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Elizabeth David calls ravioli, and all the members of the ravioli family, among the best and most original of all Italian dishes.

Other names for ravioli include agnolotti, anolina, tortelli, mezzaluna, pansoti, and raviolini, varying by region or by shape, from squares to triangles to half moons.

These little squares, one to two-inch on a side, made with fresh egg pasta, provide a perfect packet for a variety of fillings. To make ravioli, see how to make ravioli. 

The object of these very elegant concoctions, Elizabeth says, is the delicacy and variety of the stuffings, and so they should never be served drowned in an overpowering sauce.

Herewith the simple and most-used accompaniment to ravioli: a sauce of butter and sage, with the addition of white wine as an option. This sauce always works.

for the sauce:

• three-quarters of a stick of butter (6 tablespoons)
• 6-8 good size sage leaves (chopped or not)
• one-third cup white wine (optional)
• salt and pepper
• three-quarters  freshly grated parmesan

Put the butter into a sauté pan over low heat until it is melted. Turn the heat to medium and add the sage, plus a pinch of salt and pepper. Cook for two minutes. Add the white wine (optional) and cook for another minute or two. If you are using the full sage leaves, remove them now. Set the sauce aside.

When the ravioli are finished, put them in a bowl, add the sauce and stir ever so gently, adding the parmesan as you go.

Serve immediately, with an extra sage leaf or two as decoration.

Another option: for a slightly different taste, put one tablespoon of chopped shallots into the butter just before adding the sage.

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