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tagliolini with sugo d'arrosto (sauce from a roast)

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Here is a mouth watering pasta sauce which you produce while you are also producing roast veal, to be used at another time (or as a secondo if you are really into being carniverous). This is adapted from Joyce Goldstein, noted cookbook author. She developed the recipe while on travels in the Piedmont area sampling the best of the Italian wines and the hearty cuisine. So, naturally this delicious pasta dish goes perfectly with wonderful Piedmont wines, like Barolo and Barbaresco and others.

One can use any of a number of cuts of veal, or, if one wishes to go that way, cuts of beef. If you use a veal shank, it is relatively easy to use the cut of meat in another dish. If veal stew meat, or beef stew meat, it might require a little ingenuity.

for the sauce:

three tablespoons of butter
two tablespoons of olive oil
one clove garlic finely chopped
one-half cup chopped onion
one quarter cup chopped pancetta
one carrot, diced
one rib of celery, diced
two pounds of veal, or three pounds of bone-in veal shank. (see note below)
two cups dry red wine, Barolo or Barberesco would be super
one tablespoon chopped rosemary, fresh
two tablespoons of tomato paste
three cups or more beef broth
salt and freshly ground pepper
one tablespoon chopped parsley

for the pasta:

one pound freshly made (ideally) tagliatelle or fettucine. (see how to make fresh egg pasta).

Veal note: you can use veal stew, or a small veal roast (or even a small beef roast). Or the veal shank to be used later.

Heat the butter and the olive oil in a heavy, deep saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the chopped pancetta and cook for two minutes. Add the garlic and cook for thirty seconds. Add the onion, carrot and celery and saute for six minutes.

Add the meat, the wine, the broth, the rosemary and the tomato paste, and bring to a boil. Plus a teaspoon of salt and several turns of the pepper mill. Then reduce the heat to a simmer, and, under a partial cover, continue the simmer for about two hours. The meat should be tender, and the sauce should be fairly thick, and rich and concentrated. Be sure to check the simmering regularly: keep adding more stock if necessary to keep the sauce fairly fluid.

Remove the meat and set aside. (see note below). Allow the sauce to cool and put it through a food mill. Taste for salt and pepper.

Get five quarts of water up to a raging boil. Add two tablespoons of salt. Add the tagliolini. Cook until al dente. Then drain well.

Add the tagliolini to the heated sauce. Taste for salt and pepper.

Serve in heated bowls immediately. Serve with the chopped parsley on top.

Meat option: one option, of course, is to put the meat back into the sauce, for a total meal so to speak. When we do that, we generally use veal stew meat and cut it into half inch cubes. But you can make any of the other cuts, other than the shank, work in the same way. If you are going to use the meat back in the sauce, there is no need to do the food mill thing. Keep it all a little rustic

We did another variation with veal stew, which was cubed: used it the next day with pappardelle. Just the pappardelle, a flavorful tomato sauce, and the veal meat.